J-2-G-Eng, Now in Germany: Again WHITE Streets and The meat HELL of Kosh-Doeboe

15th of September:

Our camp was after Ueguet in this amazing landscape. In our map from world mapping project there is a street which goes on to the West and later to the South which is our main direction to go to Ош that is the melting pot of the South of Kyrgyzstan. Well this road suddenly ends in the river and may have been used 10 or 20 years ago.

Some words to Maps and navigation in Central Asia:

1. Russian military maps are the best, but unfortunately I did not have from all areas.

2. Nelles map: good if you stay on the main roads. The small roads but even good roads are often not in the map.

3. World map project, mostly quite good, also have the small roads, but sometimes you can be unlucky and they do not exist.

Street signs mostly do not exist or the names in the maps are anyway different to the ones written at the beginning of the village. Easiest navigation is just to ask the people, but requires a little Russian skill.

Well, all these problems the two guys from France and Croatia, we met this morning, do not have. They just bought 2 horses with all they had. This was exactly 520 EUR/horse and a mobile phone. There buts seem to hurt quite a lot but they told us they could really experience the life in this area by riding the horse and having shelter at the locals’ houses. Both had really shiny eyes and they seemed really satisfied with there way of travel. It is always an inspiration to meet such enthusiastic and natural people.

So we went the wrong road or a road which does not exist anymore and had to go back and choose another road. Still the roads in this area are mostly dirt roads and does not see tourist so often. I always asked in the villages for the way, mostly the mens were drunken and a little bit enjoying. The Islam is not so strong here. Actually it would be better if some of this guys would practice it. I hate wodka it destroys really a lot!

On the way we stop at a broken Moskwitsch (Car, Copy of Fiat?!). The fuel hose is full with dirt, which means every 5 km they fill up a bottle which is in the engine room and which replaces the tank. Well I give them a lift to the next village which is 50 km away. This means: 6 people, 1 Baby, 2 sheep, and 200 kg of apples on the roof of the car. During this 50 km we have to stop several times since there rope to hook up the car breaks every 5 km. We make a knot in the metal rope! and go on for another 5 or if we are lucky 10 km.

In the afternoon we arrive in the village Kosh Doeboe. Later somebody explains that it means two mountains. And it is true you can really see 2 big mountains which I guess are around 4000 m high, where the village is around 2500. We get invited to a ceremony which is held 40 days after somebody died. Normally all the family meets one more time after some relative died. The people come from Bischkek, Naryn or just down from the mountain medows where they stayed with there herds. Молдо is the head of the house where also his mother, father, his wife and the two children are living. In one room which is decorated with wall and flour carpets a long 10 cm high table is placed and around the old woman in there traditional clothing are sitting. The youngest are busy preparing tea and with serving, kids running around. Now it is afternoon and they have some marmalade, deep-fried blown up cookies and Конфекты. Молдо leaves from time to time the room and tries to convince somebody to drink with him which will continue until next morning. The younger man is preparing a stove in a side building of the yard. Here a sheep will be cooked later. Meanwhile we recognise that one of our tires is flat and I start to repair it in their yard getting many suggestions from the old mans and help during pumping from the young. It is getting evening and it is part of the tradition that the guests have to see how the sheep is killed. A prayer in the direction of Mecca is made where everybody joins. Kotomi feels that also the sheep look in this direction as it is also praying. The prayer is over and now fast, fast ... давайте... the sheep is killed with the knife. No the first one is not sharp the second is also not working but the third finally did the job. Kotomi has to hold the legs of the sheep and meanwhile another guy is cutting of the warm meat. The head is grilled over the fire and will be eaten later by the most important persons of the night. The eyes seem to be the best part. Fortunately we are not important enough. Also the son who’s father died and he actually has the honour to eat the eyes seems not to want them and his uncle is eating them for them. The sheep is cooked 3 hours and additionally sausage and noodles are prepared. The food is called Beshbarmark and means something like eating with 5 fingers. The table is replaced by a big sheet so that more people can find space in the room. First only fat from the butt is served, followed by bones with a lot of meat. The oldest or most respected persons decide who gets which part. I always get more and more. I get scared that I have to eat all this. Some Шорпо (meat soup) and the Beschbarmark which is made of noodle and of course a lot of meat and onions. I am really not used to so much meat and I have difficulties to eat. Finally I see not everybody is eating everything and I do like this. Most of the stuff is meant to take home later what I did not know before. Between the eating we always stop when mostly the grandfather starts a prayer.