4th of October:
In the morning Abduloh wakes us up or better the conversation of him with Vitali, who already stood up. He invites us for tea and breakfast in his house. We just pack our tents and go to his house. Abduloh is 75 and living together with the wife of his son, who is working in Dushanbe. We are sitting on his terrace having the breakfast and view over the valley. He looks like wise old king while sitting in front of us in his long and probably warm blue coat. A Muslim cap on his head and long grey beard he has. By the way these caps are different in every valley we visited. He is very interested in our journey and we are talking about it. We get self-made honey, bread, sweets and Shirschai. Shirschai is black tea with milk, salt, butter and Nan. In Soviet times he made his military service in the Ukraine and told us that the people there were very nice. He has 12 kids and some of them working in Russia, as in most families we meet in Tajikistan. After breakfast he joins us and we walk back to our car. On the way he tells us that some of his neighbours just in the stage of some apathie. They have no money to pay the tax for the land but they also do not want to find a work in Dushanbe. That is what he told us. Some sell their cows to pay the tax. We say Goodbye and want to reach Dushanbe tonight.
But the road is still really bad, for the next 100 km sometimes I can just drive 10 km/h and the car is still jumping. However I have the feeling that our shock absorbers in the backside got damaged since the car never stops to swing. We listen to the tapes we got from Ismail in Murgab and Vitali is not happy with the old style Tajik music. But one of the tapes there is a song from ... Iglesia .... It is one of his favourite music and we hear the one song several times while jumping with the car over the "street". We are talking about god and the world. There is always an interesting topic and we really enjoy the time. In the afternoon we stop at a wedding ceremony which is held close to street. Vitali is forced to dance by some woman, who seems to be some kind of animator. It is getting dark and we decide to find a sleeping place along the street and still 80 km away from Dushanbe.
(N 38.6697 °, E 69.57805 °)
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